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Tutorial : how to multibase

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  • Tutorial : how to multibase

    Both on here and IRL I've had some questions how to make a decent multibase without too much effort.

    I'm not the best painter (some of the stuff on this site of the site puts me to shame) but my multibases usually look decent, especially from a general's view/table top standard. I wanted to make a tutorial as to to help other people out.

    This is the end result:

    It's a horde of spearmen in the process of deploying from marching colum (the elevated area in the back) to fighting deployment. I'm quite happy with the end result.

    20180910_215230.jpg

    Needed:
    One regiment of miniatures and a bit of plasticard. I bought my miniatures from ebay (as I did most of this army) which is why they are painted just okay-ish.

    20180907_141205.jpg

    Bear in mind that the 20 models here don't meet MMC, so I needed to paint a few more.
    20180908_164751.jpg

    and of course a banner from the same ebay purchase. I painted a new one, but liked that one so much that I promoted him to ASB.
    20180909_210420.jpg
    Last edited by Vince1248; 17-09-2018, 06:51 AM.

  • #2
    First of all; cut the plasticard into the required base. I wanted to split the horde into two regiments, so I cut it into half. The small strip is glued on the back to create a bit of elevation on the base.

    20180907_170008.jpg

    20180907_202632.jpg

    The next thing I did was creating the elevation by just cutting the elevated areas out of cardboard. I used two layers of cardboard as my to-go height, but in hindsight, the base would have shown better with four or five layers. Such is the process of creating something; at the end one knows exactly what could have been done different!

    20180907_224309.jpg
    Glueing everything into place creates this multibase. Doesn't really look like anything yet, does it? It's during this part of the process that I have to press myself to finish it; if I leave this unfinished for a few weeks, it likely won't finish ever. Fortunately, the next step is easy.


    20180907_230552.jpg

    Using regular split gravel (found alongside roads; in gardens or in any gardening shop) rocks are created. For this army I've used split gravel a lot and I must say it works wonders. I glued it into place with PVA glue.

    As you can see, I also smoothed the edges of the cardboard using PVA glue and sand. This trick will be used quite a few times later on.

    Now is the time to let it dry overnight as the glue needs a few hours to harden. As this stage shows progress, picking it up again from here is really easy for me.
    Last edited by Vince1248; 17-09-2018, 06:54 AM. Reason: grammar

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    • #3
      The next step (after it has dried properly) is coating the whole base liberally in PVA glue and sand. I do it in three stages; leaving it to dry in between.

      20180908_211932.jpg

      Turning the base on one side and glueing/sanding the opposite side allows the sides too to dry well. As PVA glue has a tendency to settle a bit, this prevents spillover PVA glue next to the base. as you can see, at the end of the process, no part of the base is not covered in sand.

      The final layer is quite thick so this too needs a night to dry well.

      20180909_211018.jpg

      I undercoated the base with dark brown (Valejo black brown) thinned down with water. The gravel I just painted with watered down black ink. (I mean, it's rocks depicting rocks. I just wanted the creases/shadows to show a bit more)

      20180909_220932.jpg
      Next step: drybrushing with Goblin green. Note this drybrushing is completely different than edge-highlighting on your models as the goal of this process is to create a grassy-like substance. Use an old drybrush, since drybrushing large areas of sharp edges wears them out quickly. I use an old tank brush for this.

      Note that I highlighted the rocks with cold grey and the wood with leather brown.


      Last edited by Vince1248; 12-09-2018, 10:21 AM.

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      • #4
        Now it's easy; just glue the minis on it
        20180909_221501.jpg

        I started with the marching column on the elevated area. Just after the minis (not on the picture) I also glued some grass there and there to make an even more natural ambiance.


        The final minis are in place and also the grass. Finished!

        a few closeups:





        Hopefully this serves as inspiration.

        Now onto a new project! My red-and-white army is finished now as all of my ebay purchases for this army have been multibased. Frankly, I;m a bit done with painting more humans (mostly because they keep disappointing me during battles) so I'm going to try something different alltogehter.

        When I did this last year, i painted up an abyssal army (https://www.mantic.club/forum/kings-...oject-abyssals) so I'm curious what kind of inspiration will hit me this fall.
        Attached Files
        Last edited by Vince1248; 12-09-2018, 10:37 AM. Reason: working on it

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        • #5
          Nice. Thank you for taking the time to do this. What thickness plastic card do you use? Any recommended sellers on Ebay?
          To defend: this is the pact. But when life loses its meaning and is taken for naught,then the pact is to avenge!

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          • #6
            I use 2mm plasticard. It's abit thick and therefore hard to cut, but it's sturdy and won't bend even if I load it with actual gravel.

            I've used 1.5mm and 1.0mm too and these get too flimsy when the models/terrain are more than plastic-n-paint.

            As for ebay; I buy it along with my paints at an online hobby store. As I live in the netherlands, I use a Dutch website. (modelbrouwers.nl), but I can imagine every country has a few like thiese.

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            • #7
              Loads of KOW players use MDF regiment bases, available from a bunch of places. I've used Ironheart Artisans for one army now (https://ironheartartisans.com/shop/p.../kings-of-war/), and like how they're slightly thinner and have center markings already cut in, but I'm doing the next on Tectonic Craft (https://tectoniccraftstudios.com/col...tom-unit-bases), as they are very inexpensive, if also very simple. I'm also in the US, as are these stores, so couldn't say if you're looking for international option.

              EDIT: Forgot to add the bit about why choose MDF over plasticard. Precut in exact sizes is a thing, rugged and sturdy as well, but for me it's because you can bake it. I use a lot of textured rollers with sculpey, which needs to go in the oven at more degrees than plasticard could take.

              Nice tutorial Vince1248 , very helpful to see not only a multibasing guide but also a multi-rebasing guide
              Last edited by Boss Salvage; 14-09-2018, 01:24 PM.
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